Did you mean to type “Betta splendens” instead of Splendin?Either way, I think this is alright, but the one I’m sharing here is IMO better. It shares more information, tells about more topics, and is more direct.
While I don’t agree on all the things on it (the temprature range and feeding twice per day)I think it’s still overall a bit more helpful. Maybe you should try taking some inspiration?
Think about who you’d like this picture shared to. Is it a complete fishkeeping beginner, keeping their betta in a 2 gallon tank with tap water and a spongebob pineapple house? In that case, telling about proper substrate (no rainbow gravel) and the importance of live plants (and them being low maintenance, contrary to popular belief) Etc. is quite important! Also, telling people the correct parameters without telling them about test kits might be fustrating, so I’d add something about that too^(^) A bit about dechloridifier would also be useful, perhaps?
skyepostsstuff on
I like it, want to let you know the thing about their eyes being the same size as their stomachs in a myth. Also the reason why its recommended to feed them so little I believe stems from them being kept in cups in pet stores. Cold water means their metabolisms are much slower, plus a small volume of water means little exercise plus ammonia from feeding more will build up fast.
I know this is a basic/beginner guide so I wouldn’t expect you to add all this info or anything but heres some more info on feeding/overfeeding anyway:
Another reason why its recommended to feed so little is because we typically feed pellets, which are a dry food. That dry food absorbs water in the bettas stomach and expands, if you fed say 4 dry pellets they might expand to the size of maybe 9 or 10 dry pellets while in the fish’s stomach. Suddenly that’s a big mass of food that needs to pass through your fish’s organs. You can avoid overfeeding dry food by soaking pellets in tank water for 5 minutes beforehand. Or by feeding other wet foods which would be live or frozen live foods. The risk of constipation is much lower with wet foods, though they may still appear to get bloated from wet food it’s much less likely they will become constipated from it. I regularly feed my fish enough to be slightly bloated and it always goes down within an hour or so, if it lasts longer than that I skip the next meal or two.
With that said I did also have a fish that was just prone to bloating and swim bladder issues so I did have to feed him smaller amounts. Just depends on the fish I think
One-plankton- on
Long shallow tanks are not required, bettas have fully functional gills and can breathe under water. They also are one of a handful of fish that will utilize an entire tank, top to bottom. People keep Bettas in 55 gallon tanks which are 20” tall.
Despite the influx of bad genetics from big box stores that are making their lifespans much shorter a well bred bettas lifespan in captivity is 5-6 years
The nitrogen cycle is complete when 2ppm of ammonia is converted into nitrates in 24 hours with no nitrites detected. Many people’s tap water will show 0-0-5 with no cycle, so I would not use that as a reference.
An emphasis on live plants would be good.
And suggested feeding would be 5-6 pellets a day, with one skip day. I’d love to see more inclusions of live food for enrichment or frozen foods like mysis and brine shrimp for health.
Objective-Emu-3899 on
I don’t like it personally, the capital lettering is quite inconsistent.
6 Comments
Nice 1
Honestly can someone explain cycling to me i really dont understand what to do…
I gor my firs tank with used sponge to help cycle faster bur i have no idea what to do
I find the text to be hard to read, so I’d recommend bolding it or choosing a better font
https://preview.redd.it/plrjmft58xig1.jpeg?width=376&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ccd8df23cc0a92e4096906adc2889c294d628705
Did you mean to type “Betta splendens” instead of Splendin?Either way, I think this is alright, but the one I’m sharing here is IMO better. It shares more information, tells about more topics, and is more direct.
While I don’t agree on all the things on it (the temprature range and feeding twice per day)I think it’s still overall a bit more helpful. Maybe you should try taking some inspiration?
Think about who you’d like this picture shared to. Is it a complete fishkeeping beginner, keeping their betta in a 2 gallon tank with tap water and a spongebob pineapple house? In that case, telling about proper substrate (no rainbow gravel) and the importance of live plants (and them being low maintenance, contrary to popular belief) Etc. is quite important! Also, telling people the correct parameters without telling them about test kits might be fustrating, so I’d add something about that too^(^) A bit about dechloridifier would also be useful, perhaps?
I like it, want to let you know the thing about their eyes being the same size as their stomachs in a myth. Also the reason why its recommended to feed them so little I believe stems from them being kept in cups in pet stores. Cold water means their metabolisms are much slower, plus a small volume of water means little exercise plus ammonia from feeding more will build up fast.
I know this is a basic/beginner guide so I wouldn’t expect you to add all this info or anything but heres some more info on feeding/overfeeding anyway:
Another reason why its recommended to feed so little is because we typically feed pellets, which are a dry food. That dry food absorbs water in the bettas stomach and expands, if you fed say 4 dry pellets they might expand to the size of maybe 9 or 10 dry pellets while in the fish’s stomach. Suddenly that’s a big mass of food that needs to pass through your fish’s organs. You can avoid overfeeding dry food by soaking pellets in tank water for 5 minutes beforehand. Or by feeding other wet foods which would be live or frozen live foods. The risk of constipation is much lower with wet foods, though they may still appear to get bloated from wet food it’s much less likely they will become constipated from it. I regularly feed my fish enough to be slightly bloated and it always goes down within an hour or so, if it lasts longer than that I skip the next meal or two.
With that said I did also have a fish that was just prone to bloating and swim bladder issues so I did have to feed him smaller amounts. Just depends on the fish I think
Long shallow tanks are not required, bettas have fully functional gills and can breathe under water. They also are one of a handful of fish that will utilize an entire tank, top to bottom. People keep Bettas in 55 gallon tanks which are 20” tall.
Despite the influx of bad genetics from big box stores that are making their lifespans much shorter a well bred bettas lifespan in captivity is 5-6 years
The nitrogen cycle is complete when 2ppm of ammonia is converted into nitrates in 24 hours with no nitrites detected. Many people’s tap water will show 0-0-5 with no cycle, so I would not use that as a reference.
An emphasis on live plants would be good.
And suggested feeding would be 5-6 pellets a day, with one skip day. I’d love to see more inclusions of live food for enrichment or frozen foods like mysis and brine shrimp for health.
I don’t like it personally, the capital lettering is quite inconsistent.